The Big Island
HILO, HAWAII
When you step off your transport, the island’s laid back vibe interrupts your senses, and life stands still in the quiet, old, and empty airport. Welcome to Hilo, a charming coastal town lost in time.
It’s true not much has changed in the way of life in Hilo for many decades, and locals will tell you of their laid-back traditions without hesitation or guilt. People live at the speed of the whimsical ukulele melodies that make you think of the islands - floating slowly through their days, relishing conversation and one another’s company as the core foundations of life. There’s no stress or sense of urgency.
If you want to experience hookipa, hospitality. Hilo one of the few remaining destinations that put’s ho-o-ki-pa authentically into practice.
Hilo’s Aloha spirit, surging waterfalls, and tropical landscape can’t be compared to Waikiki’s concrete jungle and artificial beaches. A home cooked meal version of century old hospitality VS a McDonald’s Happy Meal vacation.
Head to the eastern side of the big island and you’ll find this little known treasure.
Slowly wake each day to the gentle sound of rainfall pattering through the banyan trees tapping against large lush plants leaves teeming below. Jurassic Park foliage and the calming bird songs greet your ears. A misty cloud layer hovers above Hilo Bay leading you to believe there won’t be single ray of sunlight during your stay. The once booming hub for sugar trade and fishing sees an abundant 200+ inches of rainfall per year.
A hour or two later the moody fog retreats and the sun emerges revealing serene tropical landscape offering waterfalls, rainforests, exhilarating outdoor adventure experiences, the freshest seafood known to man, and a national park you can’t miss.
OFF ROADING & ZIPLINE
Straight up. I want a Polaris Razor.
Most men can remember a time as a boy when you are infatuated with vehicles. Golf carts, go karts, cars, anything that you can get in and speed around on. And all you want to do is that. Get in and drive.
The Polaris Rzr brings you back to that moment of childhood.
Being 30, i’m not sure I’ve grown up yet anyway, and ripping around in the mud like a madman through the former sugar cane fields north of Hilo along the ascent to Mauna Kea entirely confirmed that to me. Seriously. Look at the photo lol. If the Polaris Razor didn’t cost $25k, I would own one already.
I was lucky enough to have a guide that let us break all the rules. I think we did something like 60mph, donuts, shredding sharp corners - basically everything dangerous you’re not supposed to do. “As long as you don’t flip the thing and get me in trouble, we’re good.”
My advice: grip it and rip it. Oh, and wear something you can throw away.
SUISAN POKE
Fishermen return to the docks of 110 year old Suisan Market unloading the night’s catch at 3am.
Suisan Market supplies the entire island with fresh caught fish distributed daily after being processed from the docks during the first hours of the day. Upon arrival the catch is swiftly cleaned and prepared to be shipped out across the island to restaurants, grocery stores, and virtually anywhere fresh fish is sold.
By day, Suisan is a favorite for island natives and tourists offering the FRESHEST POKE you will ever eat. The market has a wide selection of marinated seafood blends, mouthwatering sides, and large, delicious slices of ahi, marlin, salmon and more. Pick your favorite blend and savor a heaping plate of fresh seafood.
Poke is native to Hawaii, and in Hilo you experience this meal served nearly as fresh as the day the dish was created.
AUTHENTIC ALOHA
I was fortunate to spend time with some Hilo locals, learning about their culture and sense of hospitality, learning about pronunciation, how they grew up, names, sense of place, language, and ancient traditions.
Ua ola loko i ke aloha - “Love gives life within”
The original greeting in Hawaiian, before aloha, translates to - “Have you eaten?”
It’s a type of mentality you rarely find anywhere in the world. Imagine stepping back in time as one of the first to discover Hawai’i being met with not weapons and angst, but welcoming arms and a selfless spirit of aloha - shirt off your back - type of hookipa hospitality. In Hawaii, it’s an honor to have guests and serve them.
Aloha is often translated as hello, goodbye, and love.
But the essence of aloha takes on a much greater meaning natively:
Compassion, affection, mercy, sympathy, kindness, charity, to be fond of, sweetheart, and beloved.
Aloha spirit is a coordination of mind and heart within each person. It brings each person to the self, reflecting inward, rather than upon others. To practice it, each person much think and emote good feelings to others. Aloha is an expression or reminder of these five important values:
Akahai - kindness
Lōkahi - unity
‘Olu’olu - gentle
Ha’aha’a - humility
Ahonui - patience
ʻo wai kou inoa - What is your water called?
Hawaiians believe vibrations and energy released when speaking have a tremendous influence on the being.
ʻo wai kou inoa literally translates to “what is your water called?” - or - What’s your name?
The vibrations from your voice travel and affect the water’s energy of the spoken being or place. The vibrations of mispronouncing O’ahu all the way in Iceland will travel to the island, bringing it’s harmony and delicate lifeforce out of balance.
Names and how they are pronounced are very important in Hawaiian culture. As it was said to me, “How many times per day is your name said?” Mispronunciation and ill use of a name brings harm the that being, or place.
It certainly gave me something to think about in carelessly mispronouncing names and places, Hawaiian isn’t easy.
It’s no surprise pronunciation is sacred on the islands and is seen critically as a sign of respect. Taking care of your pronunciation will serve you well.
VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
Walking inside a volcano crater feels nothing short of being on a different planet.
Hike Kīlauea Iki Crater
Deep inside the national park you’ll find the Kīlauea Iki trail leading down a meandering jungle path departing from the edge of the volcano’s massive basin arriving at the floor of the crater below. There are several teasing overlooks along the trail. People look like ants in the enormous caldera below.
Emerging from the forest you are greeted by another world. Desolate. Massive. You walk down across the basin cast by waves of hardened lava in awe. When you stop moving and the lava rock crunching underneath your feet silences, you discover a delicate gift from nature.
Kīlauea Iki is a sound bowl. Tropical bird songs and all the living creatures rustling about in the jungle surround your senses as if the creatures are inches away from you. Close your eyes and fully immerse yourself in nature’s soundtrack.
I got chills. It was wild.
Explore Nāhuku, The Thurston Lava Tube
Years ago, pipes of hot magma sped underneath the earth creating caverns you can now walk through.
The lava tubes are another unique volcanic phenomenon that you can visit at the park. Crossing through the dark cave trail imaging it was once filled with speeding 2,000ºF lava liquifying everything it touches.
Devastation Trail
An interesting hike south of the crater, where massive chunks of lava were blown by wind into a forest. Nothing but a few tree sticks remain from the eruption along this quiet, empty trail.
Steam Vents
One of the first attractions you discover in the park just past the visitor center. Rainfall seeps into the ground where it’s heated into a misty vapor by the warm volcanic rock below.
Kilauea Caldera
A massive crater nearly 450 feet deep and what seems like miles wide. The vista points are jaw dropping. Imagine something that massive erupting. Wow!
Kīlauea Iki
From above, hikers look like ants walking towards the center of the caldera across the hardened molten lava. If you can make the hike down, it’s a must.
FARMER’S MARKET
Hilo’s market is a must if you are in town on Wednesday night or Saturday morning.
Hundreds turn out to visit local vendors selling freshly picked produce and tropical fruits, handcrafted goods, and local art. Rambutan, longan, papaya, pineapple, among other delicious treats you can only get in Hawaii. Wednesday the market opens at night with live music.
FOOD. MAHALO!
Rice is served with almost every meal. Island favorites include loco moco: rice, with a burger patty, covered by over-easy eggs and gravy. Macaroni salad is served with a lot of Hawaiian plates, there’s no shortage of carbs on the menu. Spam is in a bunch of breakfast dishes. It made me laugh, you don’t see spam, spam and more spam very often on the mainland. I did devour my first bite of Spam on my second round at Ken’s Pancake House.
Ken’s is where it’s at for breakfast in Hilo. Your quintessential 24-hour diner that makes you feel like your in the set of a Tarantino movie. Serving your Hawaiian favorites, breakfast favorites, and 3 types of tropical syrup for your pancakes.
Poke. Mmmm. I ate poke at least twice a day, Big Island poke is the best in the world. Fish is brought in at Suisan Market at 4am, prepared, and ready to nom by 7am. It doesn’t get any fresher than that.
DOWNTOWN HILO
Get there before 7pm.
GRAND NANILOA HILTON RESORT
There aren’t many places to stay in Hilo, but by no means is Grand Naniloa Resort a cop-out. In fact, it’s about as authentic Hawaiian aloha as it gets.
The oceanfront resort features a stunning gallery of $4 million in photography and artwork from Kim Taylor Reece. Reece’s work explores stunning images of Hawaii’s famed Merrie Monarch Festival and gorgeous Hula dancers. Not to mention the collection of Hawaiian artifacts on display in the lobby.
Here’s what I loved:
Naniloa translates to “very beautiful”
Ocean view rooms and suites
Rent watersport gear onsite
Stunning views of Hilo bay
KapohoKine Adventures
Ready to get dirty, see a volcano, or go stargazing on Mauna Kea? KapohoKine Adventures HQ is in the lobby and tours launch from the hotel. ATV, Ziplining, and stargazing are a must.
GETTING TO HILO
United offers direct flights into Hilo Airport (ITO), or it’s a short layover from Honolulu into the big island’s sleepy travel facility where two might be considered a crowd.
I had the layover in Honolulu with Hawaiian Air.
RULE #32 - ENJOY THE LITTLE THINGS
As the aircraft starts the descent towards landing, you are required to fill out a Hawaii customs form. Looking official and slightly intimidating - especially if you’ve returned from abroad through US customs - you get the form and fill it out honestly, in detail, and await your turn with a less than pleasant border control agent. You had the form in. Nobody asks you questions. Nobody looks at the form. No checkpoint leaving the airport.
I found hysterical minus the wasted paper. Next time i’m going to put something funny down.
HAWAIIAN AIRLINES
It was my first time to Hawaii and also first time on Hawaiian Air. I have to say service was great and I did enjoy the food choices outside of the typical cardboard sandwiches. Flying Hawaiian was great.
Over the pacific there’s no WiFi so you are left to entertain yourself during the flight. Make sure to download your favorite playlists and bring a book.
